Coolant over flowing

On my 2002 GMC Dinali I’ve been having issues with the coolant fluid boiling out of the holding tank.the Vehicle never overheated and was working fine after I replace the fluid. About a month later it happened again this time I’m getting no hot air coming out of the heater and the temperature gage has risen a bit. Is is the water pump and or the thermostat

How do I fix this coolant flush?

My vehicle is a 1999 Saturn SC2 with a coolant capacity of 7 liters.

I attempted to start flushing my coolant before changing the water pump. I drained the coolant from the bottom of the radiation. Then I closed petcock and put in some radiator flush and cleaner into the reservoir then topped it off with distilled water. I now realize that I don’t think I drained all of the coolant since I only put in about half a gallon of fluid. I can’t remove the thermostat because the bolts got stripped when I changed it a few months ago. I noticed a build up of some sort of mineral solid when I replaced the thermostat so that is when I figured a coolant flush would be good. How can I fix any possible problems I may have caused? How do I get the coolant back to the proper concentration?

I was letting the car run and was monitoring the reservoir level to add more water when I noticed that the reservoir was bubbling. I quickly turned it off, any help is appreciated. I had checked it at about 5 minutes and the reservoir had dropped a tad, at ten minutes and it dropped a bit more then at 20 minutes was when it was boiling.

The reservoir was about empty and it took 1/3 of a gallon of distilled water to fill up.

reduce coolant consumption

I am confident that my COOLANT consumption is normal but I would like to reduce it.
It seems to me that coolant overflow systems are less than ideal. The air space above the coolant in the bottle must contain some components of evaporated coolant. That air is constantly pumping in and out. Engine heat must be increasing that evaporation. In addition, especially whenever the engine is running, air is blowing over the air-bleed hole and whisking coolant vapor away. I wonder too about the size of the bleed hole. My father’s old 1978 Mazda 626 had a pinhole whereas my latest two cars are about 25 sq.mm. … why so large? I also imagine coolants contain antioxidant to reduce rusting and oxygen from the air would consume some of it.

Ideally I would think a sealed system like a bladder that could expand and contract would be the ultimate solution but apparently not? Is there something against heat shielding the bottle? Is the gradual loss just water, meaning keeping the bottle topped up with distilled water rather than coolant is ok ? Keeping it topped up to the max line would keep the air space/vapor loss to a minimum too? Coolant changes are a pain what with flushing, expelling air pockets, disposal of the old, mess etc. and perhaps the intervals could be extended with system design improvements?

How often should we change Coolant Temperature Sensor, and is it life time long?

I drive Nissan Sunny 2010 N16, it has 225000 KM, I am experiencing extra fuel consumption, for 45 Ltr it makes only 350 KM in average (high way/city) driving, one week back I changed the oxygen sensor but no luck, now I am thinking to change the Coolant Temperature Sensor cause it has been for long (5 years, 180000 KM) not changed

Coolant not circulating and spilling out after the radiator and thermostat were replaced

I replaced the radiator and thermostat on my 98 Subaru Forester but still when I drive it the temperature gauge reads over the hot line the heater doesn’t work but the coolant doesn’t seem to be circulating to where its supposed to be. It spills back into the reservoir tank (plastic tank attached to the radiator) then it spills out onto the engine and everywhere else.

I don’t think it’s the head gasket cause the engine runs fine and it doesn’t over heat at all plus it still hauls ass. Just this coolant problem. The only thing I can think of is the temperature sensor or heating coil. I just bought it and I can’t drive it because I’m afraid to make it worse.

Water from coolant system leaking under engine block

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Water pissing out under engine block instantly after water poured into the cooling system.

Has something came loose or is cause for real concern and a high-cost repair? In which car will sadly have to be scrapped.

The car has been losing water but not to this extent so something has clicked in a bad way. Recently temperature gauge has been going up, haven’t driven very much.

But car essentially broke down today.

Appreciate any response.

Question: Why does my “low coolant” light come on when the weather gets cooler?

I have plenty of coolant in my car. For years, I drive the car in warm weather and all is fine, but the minute the temperatures start to get cooler, the “low coolant” light comes on and stays on for about 10 minutes and then goes off. Why?